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| KAYAK TOURING 2007 |
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| Victoria's Secret |
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| While better-known areas reap most of the cognoscente’s attention, stellar paddling can be found in the distinguished provincial capital. |
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| Tourists flock to B.C.’s most British-feeling city in droves year-round, as it has one of the mildest climates in Canada. The city’s stately Inner Harbour, overlooked by the grand, ivy-covered Fairmont Empress Hotel and the province’s equally imposing Parliament Buildings attracts most visitors—including paddlers who like to see the sites from the water side of the busy waterfront. Victoria is, in fact, surrounded by water, with bays and inlets cushioning it from the powerful swells of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Pacific Ocean. But there’s another aspect of Victoria that’s equally charming and offers a classic West Coast paddling experience without going to Barkley Sound or the San Juans. The trick is to venture away the Inner Harbour to the exceedingly quaint city of Oak Bay, a few miles northeast of downtown, where paddlers will find two bays ripe for both day-tripping and multi-day tours. STROKES Cattle Point, a rocky outcropping that juts out between Oak Bay to the south and Cadboro Bay to the north, features a concrete boat ramp that easily accommodates kayaks. Day-trippers will find plenty to see by just paddling the calm waters, dotted with little rocky islands, along each bay. Keep your eyes open for seals, sea lions, otters, and lots of birds—from lanky black oystercatchers to flashy-looking Barrow’s goldeneye ducks. Even though these are protected bays, they are still subject to strong tides and wind, so if your brace stroke has been stored in a garment bag in an attic somewhere, it’s better to try this crossing on a slack tide when the weather is calm. More advanced paddlers looking for an extended trip can head east approximately three miles to Discovery Island, where there’s a provincial park complete with a campground and hiking-trail system that runs from the lighthouse on Sea Bird Point to the western shore of the park. Consult marine charts 3424, 3440, and 3461 for more information on this area. If you need an outfitter, contact Ocean River Sports (250-381-4233 or 800-909-4233). Z’s If camping’s not your thing you’ll have to head back downtown—Oak Bay rolls up its sidewalks early. There are several hotels right on the Inner Harbour, such as the regal Fairmont Empress (www.fairmont.com/empress), but you’ll pay dearly for the proximity and the panache. For the best combination of value, appeal, and convenience, try the Chateau Victoria Hotel & Suites (www.chateauvictoria.com; 800-663-5891 or 250-382-4221), located in the downtown core. SUDS, SIGHTS & SUPPER The Chateau’s Vista 18 lounge/restaurant on the top floor features amazing 360-degree views of the area. Stop in for a perfunctory drink before heading out to Canoe Brewpub & Restaurant (450 Swift St.; www.canoebrewpub.com; 250-361-1940) on the Inner Harbour, for dinner. Canoe’s outdoor patio is the best in Victoria, and the brewmaster’s beers are classic Pacific Northwest. The menu is full of seasonal, locally provided organic foods that range from the comforting (1/2-pound burgers and fries) to the creative (seafood masala curry). SHOULDER BREAK If a misplaced high brace makes sawdust of your rotator cuff, the sprawling, 3,000-acre Beacon Hill Park stretches from the edge of downtown to the steep oceanfront cliffs (with beach access) at Dallas Road. You could spend the better part of a day here walking the trails that pass by numerous ponds and through amazing flower gardens. TREATS Pop over to the nearby Beacon Drive-In (corner of Beacon Street and Douglas Street) for an ice cream cone before you head out. The affordable diner-style menu will help you put back on the pounds you burned kayaking. The sooner you regain that weight, the sooner you’ll have an excuse to plan your next paddling trip. GETTING TO OAK BAY Just head away from the Inner Harbour and downtown on Johnson Street until it hooks up with Oak Bay Avenue. Follow that all the way down to Beach Drive and go left. Look for the signs to Cattle Point Park and you’ll be at a great jumping-off point for either a day trip or an overnighter. If you’d prefer to launch from a sandy beach, look for signs to Willows Beach on the right as you head toward Cattle Point on Beach Drive Text and photo by ADEM TEPEDELEN |