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| TROUT FISHING NEAR AMERICAN CITIES |
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| Chapter 24: Seattle |
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| Yakima and Snoqualmie Rivers |
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| Many fly-fishers who moved to the Emerald City with the high-tech boom of the ’90s discovered that this bustling metropolis, wedged between the island-dotted beauty of Puget Sound and the craggy, majestic Cascade Mountains, has much to offer the ambitious angler. Hidden in the shadow of the anadramous fishery that western Washington has long been known for are two rivers that in many respects can stand up to the excellence of any of the best wild trout fisheries west of the Mississippi. The Snoqualmie and Yakima Rivers, flowing down from opposite sides of the Cascades, provide year-round opportunities to catch wild trout in a variety of stunning settings. And though both rivers draw their clear, cold water from the snowy reaches of Snoqualmie Pass, they flow through distinctly different climates and terrain, with the Snoqualmie descending the lush western slope and ultimately emptying into Puget Sound, while the Yakima coasts across the dry eastern plateau to its confluence with the Columbia River in Richland. So too are there many differences in the fishing experience each offers, with the Snoqualmie providing a small-stream adventure less than an hour outside of Seattle, while the Yakima is a bit farther, but offers much larger fish and an astounding variety of terrain. If you’re visiting Seattle for the weekend and are looking for a quick escape from the city where you can spend an afternoon catching feisty cutthroats in the shadow of the rugged Cascades and still be back in time for a dinner appointment, the Snoqualmie fits the bill. If you have a bit more time (and more equipment) and want a multi-day adventure, a float down the Yakima will give you access to many miles of a broad, beautiful river that holds a healthy population of sizable rainbows. Both rivers, however, do have a few things that all budget anglers can appreciate: plenty of easy access, a minimal amount of required gear, and lots of beautiful wild fish. SNOQUALMIE RIVER On a sunny day in Seattle, the Cascade Mountains fill the eastern skyline with a seamless, jagged line of craggy, snow-covered peaks. At the base of this majestic range, sits the tiny town of North Bend, where the three forks—North, Middle and South—that constitute the trout fishery of the Snoqualmie coalesce into a broad, slow-moving river and plunge 268 feet over Snoqualmie Falls. Below the falls, the Snoqualmie is a respectable salmon and steelhead fishery, but above it cutthroat, rainbow and “cuttbows” (a rainbow/cutthroat hybrid) and a smattering of eastern brookies provide most of the action. The forks begin as small, snow-fed creeks near the Pacific Crest Trail, along the spine of the Cascades, and tumble down through lush, rocky terrain before flattening out in the foothills surrounding North Bend. Forests of Douglas fir crowd the rising Cascades, and pale, thin alders line the forks as they amble down through the valleys. Because this area receives a lot of snow and rain, it’s a wonderland of thick forests, berry-covered bushes, huge ferns and bright wildflowers through much of the year. These three forks are perhaps the most unsung and underrated trout streams in western Washington, frequently passed over by fly fishers heading across Snoqualmie pass to the mighty Yakima on the eastern slope of the Cascades. These rocky streams are brimming with plenty of little beauties in the 6- to 10-inch range. It is not uncommon to hook a colorful 12-inch native cutthroat or crimson-striped rainbow. The fish are all native or streambred, as the river hasn’t been stocked in more than 20 years. Unless you’re accessing one of the forks via a man-made trail, of which there are plenty, be prepared to push through some brush. A few breaths of the heady, intoxicating scents that fill these woods—vine-ripened berries, wildflowers, spicy firs and the dark, moist soil—are worth any scrapes or scratches you may encounter along the way. If you only have a few hours and want to get into fish quickly and easily, there are several public accesses within North Bend’s city limits. There is decent fishing in the flat, deep pools and brushy undercut banks; however, the better angling and purest water are farther east, in the mountains. SOUTH FORK The South Fork is the most accessible of the three forks and has the best fishing. Though much of the South Fork parallels busy I-90, there are numerous places where the rush of the highway is inaudible. An excellent place to start fishing it is a mile from Exit 34. Take a right onto 468th SE off the exit and head south. Go just past the sign for Twin Falls and park near the bridge. The stretch from the bridge to the Twin Falls trail head (approximately a half mile) is rife with prime pocket water. Every place that looks like it holds fish does. There are long, slow deep pools that contain big, cautious fish and swirling eddies that are chock full of voracious smaller guys> -> all of them greedily snap up dry flies. There are several houses along the river in this section, but wading in the river itself presents no trespassing problems. There are additional access points at Olallie State Park off of Exit 38, at Tinkham Campground at Exit 42, and at the Denny Creek/Asahel Exit 47. A short, light rod is recommended for the entire South Fork, as the cover is often heavy and the stream is mostly narrow. In these upper reaches you can fish for wild cutthroats through the small pockets and the deeper pools undercutting rock facings and flowing past huge boulders. Don’t be fooled by the diminutive size of the South Fork at this higher elevation—it holds plenty of fish in every little nook and cranny. The fish are smaller up here, but no less beautiful or frisky, and there are a few trout up to 11 inches in some of the deeper pools. The wild cutts are wily little fish that are as sporty as they are gorgeous. They are also renowned for spitting barbless hooks with ease. For every two fish you’ll hook, you’ll lose at least one. Keep in mind too, that late in summer when lack of rain causes the river to drop to its lowest level, the fish become easily spooked in the shallow water. Overhanging brush and branches will help break up direct sunlight and mask your shadow, but stealth is required. The lush mountain setting of the upper reaches of the South Fork is magical, and on a hot summer day, a mere hour’s drive from Seattle to the cool air. If you camp at Denny Creek, there are plenty of trails, falls and alpine lakes to explore when you’re not fishing. MIDDLE FORK The Middle Fork is the biggest of the three forks and, therefore most popular with anglers. Many of the locals picnic and swim further upstream, and you might also encounter kayakers. However there is still plenty of great fishing in the upper water. To get to the upper reaches, take Exit 34 off of I-90 and go left on 468th SE. Follow this road for about a half mile and then go right on Middle Fork Road SE, which eventually turns into Lake Dorothy Road—a rough gravel road that follows the Middle Fork fairly closely for more than 15 miles. There are several pull outs along the way. Go at least eight or nine miles up to get away from the crowds and into the best fish. The Middle Fork is a broader river than the South Fork. It’s pools are deeper and riffles faster in some areas. However, there’s also more room to cast, as gravel banks provide relief from the dense foliage surrounding the river. The Middle Fork does have some primitive Forest Service campgrounds along the upper reaches and would be an excellent destination if you’re interested in escaping the crowds and roughing it for a few days. One of the tributaries, the Taylor River, is a great pocket-water stream, tucked into a dense fir forest, just below the imposing Cascades. NORTH FORK The least accessible of the three forks of the Snoqualmie, the North Fork can be reached by following the county road north through North Bend. After a few miles it forks off to the left and becomes a rough gravel road that runs through a Weyerhauser tree farm. You’ll need to buy a pass from Weyerhauser to access this, but it’s well worth it if you live in the area, as it also gives you access to several alpine lakes and other streams. The first access point to the North Fork from this road is eight or nine miles upstream, where the road crosses it. The road then follows the water a little more closely for the next few miles. You will encounter few other anglers in this area. Overnight camping is not allowed in the area, but an early start will allow for a full day of fishing. In these upper reaches the North Fork is relatively narrow, but there are nice deep pools and bountiful riffles. Many of the pockets are short and swift, but well -placed flies can root out hungry fish. The gravel banks revealed in the summer provide area away from the thick brush and allow for long, unfettered casts. The meadows surrounding the upper reaches of the North Fork are thick with huckleberry bushes, and though black bears in the area are fond of the fat purple berries, they are also extremely shy and rarely encountered. You’re far more likely to spot a herd of elk or a couple of black-tail deer. SNOQUALMIE HATCHES AND BEST TIME TO FISH Part of what makes fishing the three forks of the Snoqualmie so appealing is that the fish, for the most part, are not picky. They readily gobble dry flies from June through October, even when there is no hatch occurring. Having said that I will also admit that there have been a few occasions when I have encountered hatches where the trout became selective. However, the first time I fished each of the forks I had no trouble connecting with fish. There are plenty of insects and lots of hungry fish. The hatches on the Snoqualmie are similar to those that occur on many eastern Washington rivers. There are plenty of midge hatches all year long, and trout frequently key into these late in summer evenings. Caddis make up the majority of the hatches and are omnipresent from the beginning of June through the late fall. There is a brief October Caddis hatch. During the heat of the summer there’s some hopper action to be had, but nothing like what takes place on the Yakima. There are also some PMDs that occur throughout the summer as well. Caddis patterns (#12–18) are consistent Snoqualmie trout pleasers; I’ve had good success with olive body elk hairs, but most elk hair variations work just fine. An angling friend ties an X Caddis variant, with a shiny blue green body and tail, that does equally well on the surface or in the film at the end of a downstream cast. Standard attractors such as Adams, Irresistibles, Humpies, Royal Wulffs or Stimulators (#12–14) also work well. In the late summer and fall, when the water is low and the trout are spooky, a parachute Adams or PMD (#16–18) will do the trick. Like any trout river, there are definitely times when the fish key into specific hatches—including emerging caddis and spinners—but more often than not they actively take any of the well-presented imitations mentioned above. If there are no insects hatching and the fish are refusing to rise, small beadhead nymphs (# 14–18), Hare’s Ears, Prince nymphs, and most caddis larvae or nymph imitations are worth a try. In the heat of the summer, the best fishing occurs in the late afternoon and evening, when the sun doesn’t set until after 9 p.m. Toward the fall, as the days get shorter and cooler, fishing is consistent and productive throughout the day. Though it’s close proximity to the Seattle/Tacoma area makes it a convenient getaway, it’s the fast fishing and gorgeous setting that truly make it special. Western Washington may not have a reputation for quality trout streams, but this frequently overlooked beauty is well worth seeking out and exploring. SNOQUALMIE REGULATIONS With a recent regulation change, all three forks are open year round, but like many mountain streams affected by cold spring and summer snow run-off, they fall into good shape by July and continue to be very active well into the Northwest’s October Indian summer. You may encounter rain and fluctuating water levels in October, but until the heavy rains set in and the rivers bloat, quality fishing continues late into the fall. The Middle Fork is catch-and-release year round, but the South and North Forks are catch-and-release only from Nov. 1 to May 31. YAKIMA RIVER Born of the same Cascade waters as the Snoqualmie, but flowing east rather than west, the Yakima River could hardly be any more different than its delicate westslope sister. Drawing its strength from three impoundments—Kachesss, Keechelus and Cle Elum Lakes—this tailwater fishery is as robust and rugged as the Snoqualmie is precious. And while the Snoqualmie is subject to the frequent fluctuations brought by the heavy rainfall that soaks western Washington throughout much of the year, the Yakima is affected more by seasonal releases (to meet the irrigation needs of farmers in the Yakima Valley) from the dams in its headwaters, rather than by precipitation, as it flows through several climatic and geological regions. The 75 miles of prime fishing water—from the Easton Dam to Roza Dam—are open to anglers year round and each of the four seasons bring vastly different conditions and possibilities. The river changes character gradually on its southeastern journey, going from the high-altitude pine forests near Easton, where it is still a stream, to the twisting hardwood covered banks near Cle Elum, to the dry plains of the Kittitas Valley where it flattens before descending into a canyon south of Ellensburg. Several major tributaries, such as the Cle Elum and Teanaway, hook up with it along the way, greatly influencing flows and clarity throughout the year and turning the Yakima into a sizable river. Regulated as a catch-and-release fishery in this 75-mile section since 1990, the Yakima has thrived and gained a reputation as arguably Washington’s finest trout fishery, where anglers have the chance to hook 18-inch rainbows (as well as the occasional cutthroat and cuttbow) on dry flies eight months of the year. However, it also one of the state’s most challenging and intimidating rivers, requiring successful anglers to be well-informed and resourceful. Knowing when to fish what parts of the river is an essential part of any successful trip to Yak. CRYSTAL SPRINGS TO CLE ELUM Before the Yakima reaches its confluence with the Cle Elum River, just west of the town of Cle Elum, it is still a stream that briskly ambles through mountainous, high-elevation terrain where pine trees and other conifers grip the dry soil. That all changes with the summer dam releases which create a torrent in this stretch. Too cold and snow-packed to fish in the winter and spring, too swift in the summer, you’ll find lively little rainbows, cutthroats and brookies eager to rise to dry flies in the fall once irrigation flows have subsided. Access is somewhat limited in this area, but the first place worth stopping if you’re traveling east is Crystal Springs Campground at Exit 62, just off of I-90 (which roughly parallels the Yak to the town of Cle Elum). Here you’ll find the Yakima a lot like the Snoqualmie, with lots of pocket water, shallow riffles and the occasional sweeping undercut bank. Fish are small, but the dense forest setting and crisp air make for a great small-stream experience and you’re unlikely to see many anglers. Catch-and-release regulations don’t begin until 10 miles downstream at the Easton Dam, but you are still required to use only artificial flies and lures. Continuing east on I-90, take the Golf Course Road Exit 79; take two left turns and follow Nelson Siding Rd. (heading west alongside I-90) to a clearly marked state fishing access site on the right. You can park here and wade, or launch a boat or pontoon, if you’re so inclined, though logjams and sweepers make it a tricky and potentially hazardous float for the inexperienced. Thanks to the addition of flows from Kachess Lake, the Yakima has grown in size at this point, though it’s still quite wadeable, and now holds much larger fish. Twelve inchers are common and it’s not unusual to land a 16- or 17-inch fish on a high-floating Stimulator in the fall when the October Caddis are hatching. Once the Cle Elum River (which is a good trout fishery during its June 1 to Oct. 31 season) enters, the Yakima starts to take on the characteristics that define it as it rolls toward the central Washington plains. The curves soften, it spreads out and giant cottonwoods take the place of the conifers along its banks. Take Cle Elum Exit 84 toward the town, take a right following the sign to South Cle Elum and you’ll find another access point at a bridge where you can park and wade. Since the river is much broader here and can accommodate higher flows, the area can be fished from the banks all year, but is best for wading in the spring when the golden stones are shaking hungry ’bows out of their winter doldrums. It also fishes well in the fall when the irrigation flows subside and the blue-winged olive hatch occurs every afternoon like clockwork. CLE ELUM TO ELLENSBURG Like a magical divider between lush, rain-soaked Western Washington and the dry high plains just across the mountains, both the terrain and climate begin to change drastically between Cle Elum and Ellensburg. On a given day, it may be raining and gray in Seattle and dry and sunny east of Cle Elum. This isn’t always the case, but don’t let foul weather in Seattle deter you from a trek across Snoqualmie Pass to the Yakima. Past Cle Elum, the Yakima separates itself from I-90 and access, while still pretty decent, is along State Routes 970 and 10. As the Yakima travels beyond Cle Elum’s city limits and the tall cottonwoods begin to thin, it enters into a canyon that is best reached by wading anglers taking Iron Horse Trail. Walk along this trail and you can reach boulder-studded banks where big fish can be enticed from their lairs by well-placed streamers. Beyond the steep walls of this upper canyon, the terrain opens up and farms frame both banks. This section is most successfully fished year-round from a drift-boat or pontoon-raft (there are put-ins just east of Cle Elum and take-outs at the Thorp Bridge and farther down just before a diversion dam, where you have to exit the river), because there aren’t any public access points. Floating anglers need to beware of a wasteway flume discharging blasts of water on the right bank. Watch for it once you cross under the powerlines, and stay on the left! ELLENSBURG TO ROZA RAM The ultimate destination for most anglers that fish the Yakima River is the Canyon, which is a few miles south of Ellensburg and is accessible via State Route 821. When locals talk of fishing the Yak, they are generally talking about this section. Considering the quality of fishing throughout the 75 miles of catch-and-release water, you might wonder what it is about this particular section that makes it so special. The reasons read like a fly fisher’s dream river: big, wild fish, and lots of ’em; 20 miles of nearly uninterrupted access; an absolutely gorgeous setting; and dry-fly action nearly eight months of the year. Sound too good to be true? Well, it sort of is. Depending on what time of year you fish, it can be as vexing as it is heavenly. The Yakima is wide through the Canyon and its personality and characteristics change with the seasons. When the high irrigation flows of summer swell the river, it is difficult to bank fish, but those who float it cast Pale Morning Duns (PMDs), caddis imitations and hoppers up to the brush and grass covered banks where big fish feed in the shade. In the fall and winter, greatly diminished flows are a dream for wading anglers who with the low, clear water get a better sense of the variety of structures in the river where fish hold. Cast tiny BWOs and Baetis to sippers hiding in fishy “rock gardens” from September to November and stir up strikes in January and February with a variety of nymphs in those same spots. Spring may be the most unpredictable, though not necessarily unproductive, season in the Canyon; rainfall and snowmelt in tributaries such as the Swauk and Teanaway Rivers and Wilson Creek frequently swell and discolor the Yak. Timing is everything and checking the river’s “vital signs”—the cubic foot per second (cfs) and coloration—on the Internet before you travel to the Canyon in the spring is recommended. Hit it just right and you might find yourself casting a bushy March Brown imitation to active risers. Hit it wrong and you might find yourself staring at a blown-out river whose color could be best be described as March brown. Floating is the preferred method of fishing the Canyon year-round, though bank anglers should not be discouraged. I’ve landed some of my biggest fish in the canyon standing on the bank and casting upstream into the foam lines that run a few feet off the grass-lined banks. However, there’s no denying that you have much more access to terrific water fishing from a boat. Floaters don’t always have the advantage, though. There a serious “rubber hatch” throughout the summer that finds hundreds of beer-swilling locals cruising the same stretch favored by fisherman and frequently causing a commotion. Though they tend to stick to the middle of the river, while the trout are found close to the banks, be prepared to be asked dozens of times if you’ve caught anything. Despite the distractions, a float down the Yakima Canyon is still a day well spent. Aside from the locals in their rubber rafts and innertubes, eagles, elk, deer, bighorn sheep and coyotes all make the steep, grassy ridges above the river home, while blue herons, otters, ducks, and geese are frequently fellow floaters. The stunning scenery is certainly equal to the excellence of the angling in the Canyon and whether you’re in a boat or on foot, fishing this part of the Yakima will definitely be a memorable experience. YAKIMA HATCHES This is a fertile, healthy river that generally supports a rich and diverse insect life. These hatches emerge on different sections of the river, but most early-season hatches occur in the Canyon first, where the water temperature warms a little earlier than the upper reaches. JANUARY-FEBRUARY Midges constitute the only hatches in these cold, snowy months. River temp runs in the 30s and the fish are sluggish. Try working bead-head nymphs(#12-20)—Hare’s Ear, Zug Bug, Prince, brassie—and big stonefly nymphs (#6-10). MARCH Dry-fly action begins in earnest with a hatch of golden stoneflies and a big Stimulator (#8-12) will entice fish. Also, if the weather warms, look for a Baetis hatch (#20) in the heat of the day. APRIL March Brown (#12-14) imitate mayflies that show up in April and continue through early May depending on water temperatures. Watch for a hatch during the heat of the day. Try a Pheasant Tail nymph (#14-16) dropper if rising fish are being picky. Baetis will also hatch during the warmest part of the day. MAY You might need a scorecard to keep track of all the hatches in May: March Browns, caddis (#14-16 olive and tan), Pale Morning Duns (#16-18 parachute or Comparadun), and Baetis will keep you busy throughout the day. JUNE More of the same, with caddis being the food of choice for increasingly fat trout who simply feast on the enormous evening hatches. PMDs and Baetis (on cooler days) are still good bets and Yellow Sallys (#14 yellow Stimulator or bright yellow elk hair caddis #12) are a staple in the area around Cle Elum. JULY PMDs, caddis, Yellow Sallys continue to work throughout the day, with major hatches occurring in the evening. Terrestrials are the big news in July, and hoppers (#10-12), ants, beetles, and bee patterns tossed in tight to the bank will draw ferocious strikes. AUGUST Hoppers in the heat of the day, caddis in the evening. SEPTEMBER Once flows drop, by the middle of the month, the river is perfect for wading. Caddis hatches continue, hoppers are still great, and Baetis return as the water temperatures cool toward October. A gray stonefly (use a #10-12 black or gray Stimulator) appears in the Canyon and causes a lot of commotion. An October caddis (#8 orange Stimulator) hatch (mostly in the upper section) also stirs things up. OCTOBER With the summer crowds a distant memory, like clockwork Baetis provide reliable hatches from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. The window tightens closer to November. Light Cahills (#14) frequently appear at this time and offer feeding trout a slightly larger meal. Light tippets and skillful presentations are a must for these sipping risers. NOVEMBER-DECEMBER Depending on the weather, you might get some brief BWO and Baetis hatches in the warmth of the afternoon in early November, but once the snow begins to blanket the banks, it’s back to midges and nymphing until March. YAKIMA REGULATIONS From the Easton Dam to the Roza Dam, the Yakima is catch-and-release, using only artificial flies or lures. No floating devices with motors are allowed. © 2002 Adem Tepedelen |