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| CITYFOOD MAGAZINE |
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| Victoria's Microbrew Scene |
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| text and photos by Adem Tepedelen |
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| For B.C. beer lovers a visit to Victoria is like a pilgrimage to microbrew Mecca. This is where the history of Canadian brewpubs began and the tradition established by Spinnakers owner Paul Hadfield, who opened Canada’s oldest licensed in-house brewpub 20 years ago, continues today. The city is practically awash with European-style craft-brewed beers, many of which have been given a decidedly innovative West Coast twist. And the best part for visitors to the city is most of Victoria’s brewpubs and microbreweries are located in the downtown core, or just blocks away. But all this wouldn’t have been possible without one man’s vison for making his own beer and serving it in his own pub. John Mitchell (who would later partner with Hadfield to open Spnnakers) opened the Troller Pub/Horseshoe Bay brewery, the first modern-day brewpub in North America, in 1982. Located in Horseshoe Bay outside of Vancouver, Mitchell had to brew his beer down the street from the pub because of an early legal requirement. Mitchell eventually sold his interest in The Troller and, together with Hadfield, would be instrumental in getting laws changed to allow brewpubs, where beer is made on-site and served fresh, to exist. "Spinnakers represented the first ground-up designed brewpub in the modern era," Hadfield explains. "In order to be able to do that we had to go as far as having the federal excise act changed to allow us to manufacture and sell an excised commodity on the same premises." Once that hurdle was overcome, the beer flowed freely from Spinnakers’ taps. Microbrew connoisseurs finally had a place where they could enjoy a fine selection of hearty ales. Some of those brews, such as Mitchell’s Extra Special Bitter, remain among Spinnakers’ most popular offerings to this day. Twenty years ago, however, "microbrews" and "brewpubs" weren’t even part of the average beer drinker’s lexicon. And offering a lot of choices—Spinnakers normally has about 10 different draft beers on tap—didn’t necessarily mean that the public would be receptive to its ebony black Tsarist Imperial Stout or the floral hoppiness of its India pale ale. It takes a discerning palate and a willingness to try something other than the same bland offerings that corporate giants like Labatt and Molson churn out in truck-sized vats to make microbrewed beer thrive in any area. And apparently Victoria, like other West Coast microbrew hotbeds, such as Seattle, Portland and California’s North Coast, has a population that’s receptive to full-flavored ales made in small batches. Part of this certainly has to do with this area’s reputation for supporting locally made products and businesses, but there’s a certain character to the people who settle in this community that seems to embrace quality and character over convenience and cost. "Victoria is certainly filled with a lot of beer-savvy people," notes Hugo’s Grill & Brewhouse’s brewmaster Ben Schottle. "It isn’t a novelty here. I think it has a lot to do with West Coast attitude. People are more laid-back, more willing to experiment and are after a quality product." Not surprisingly an entire culture has developed in a city that’s mad about its microbrews. Not only are lots of locally made beers available in just about every local pub (more about that below), but suddenly there are four thriving brewpubs and three well-respected microbreweries. Victoria has become a destination for those who want to enjoy some of B.C.’s finest beers. BEGIN AT A BREWPUB In a beer-crazy city, brewpubs are where the magic begins. Not only can you sample a wide selection of beers on tap (including a unique seasonal brew or two), but you can buy bottles of their finest liquid gold (or brown or black or amber…) to take with you. Beer doesn’t come any fresher than this and the food these fine establishments serve is a cut above the average pub fare. Make an appointment in advance and you can even get a look behind the scenes at the brewing facilities. Canoe Brewpub Marina & Restaurant 450 Swift Street (250) 361-1940 www.canoebrewpub.com If it’s a sunny summer day, it’s hard to find a better place to enjoy a cold beer than on Canoe’s outdoor patio, which faces Victoria’s Inner Harbour. Even if the weather isn’t cooperating, the big brick building houses a comfortable bar in a casual living room-like setting. Brewmaster Sean Hoyne keeps a modest, but flavourful, selection on tap (four regulars, plus a seasonal), but look out for a special limited-edition bottling of Maple Leaf Bock (an authentic German-style bock beer that was aged over the winter) to commemorate the 100-year anniversary of the Maple Leaf Tall Ship. Recommended: Red Canoe Lager Hugo’s Grill & Brewhouse 625 Courtney Street (250) 920-4844 www.hugoslounge.com Hugo’s dark atmosphere and the omnipresent pulse of edgy dance music definitely draw in a younger crowd. And brewmaster Ben Schottle isn’t afraid to take some risks with the solid selection of regulars and a rotating seasonal that he keeps on tap. Particularly notable is the Super G Cream which is brewed with ginseng and ginger to give it a strong, earthy character. And what goes better with beer than pizza? Check out half-price pizzas on Tuesday nights. Recommended: Hotel Porter Spinnakers Brewpub & Guesthouse 308 Catherine Street (250) 384-6613 www.spinnakers.com It’s a short drive (or a longish walk) from downtown, but do not leave Victoria until you’ve sampled Spinnakers’ exquisite selection (served at the appropriate temp, natch) brewed by Lon Ladell. If the weather’s decent, sit out on the balcony and enjoy the views of the Inner Harbour while quaffing a pint of "20", a brand new late-hopped pale ale made to commemorate this legendary brewpub’s 20th anniversary. Recommended: Mitchell’s Extra Special Bitter Swan’s Brewpub/Buckerfield’s Brewery 506 Pandora Street (250) 361-3310 www.swanshotel.com Victoria’s newest brewmaster is a 26-year-old firebrand named Andrew Tessier who has a taste for Belgian beers and a flair for the unusual. He does a solid job brewing Swans faves like Arctic Ale, Raspberry Ale and Buckerfield’s Bitter, but his latest project is a seasonal Witbier that’s sure to be a summer favorite. The setting—a bright, high-ceilinged heritage building near the Inner Harbour—and food give Swans a comfortable, traditional feel. Recommended: Extra IPA (seasonal) MICROBREWERIES MAKE BIG BEERS Victoria’s microbreweries are out there on the front lines in the battle over boring brews. You’ll find one or more of these beers on tap at most Victoria pubs, as well as in bottles in local beer and wine shops (except for Lighthouse Brewing Company’s ales, which will be available in cans for the first time this summer). Lighthouse Brewing Company 2-836 Devonshire Road (250) 383-6500 Race Rocks Ale may be Lighthouse’s flagship beer—and the one you’ll most likely find on tap in Victoria restaurants and pubs—but it was brewmaster Paul Hoyne’s hearty Keeper Stout that took the gold medal at the 2003 Canadian Brewing Awards. Recommended: Keeper Stout Phillips Brewing Company 5-798 Fairview Road (250) 380-1912 Matt Phillips was Spinnakers’ brewmaster before he launched his own line of unique ales. Initially available only in bottles, Phillips’ quirky selection—from the eye-opening Espresso Stout to the smooth Maple Cream Amber Ale—is finding a place in local pubs. Recommended: Maple Cream Ale Vancouver Island Brewing Company 2330 Government Street (250) 361-0005 www.vanislandbrewery.com The biggest of Victoria’s microbreweries, Vancouver Island Brewing Company produces some high-quality ales and lagers under the watchful eye of brewmaster Wolfgang Hoess in its impressive downtown facility. Stop in to pick up a six-beer sample pack or take a guided tour Friday or Saturday at 3:00 p.m. Recommended: Hermann’s Dark Lager NEIGHBOURHOOD PUBS OF NOTE In a city absolutely in love with microbrews, it’s no surprise that there are plenty of character-filled pubs to tip a few pints. An informal poll of several brewmasters resulted in this list, but we added a few favorites of our own. Garricks Head Pub 1140 Government Street (250) 384-6853 Christie’s Carriage House 1739 Fort Street (250) 598-5333 Maude Hunter’s 3810 Shelbourne Street (250) 721-2337 Redd’s Road House 3020 Blanshard Street (250) 382-7262 The Beagle 301 Cook Street (250) 382-3301 Penny Farthing 2228 Oak Bay Avenue (250) 370-9008 FESTIVALS Mt Washington Beerfest All-day event, July 3 (250) 338-1386 Great Canadian Beer Festival www.gcbf.com Sept. 11-12, 2004 Royal Athletic Park Admission is $20, $1 per beer token (some beers require 2 tokens) Tickets go on sale July 17 and must be purchased in advance. No sales at the door. Saturday 1-7 p.m., Sunday noon-6 p.m. ADEM TEPEDELEN |